Northwest Fishing Reports

So, recently I started trying the Float/Jig method for trying to bag steelhead up here in Washington. This is the first time I've tried it, ever. We usually drift fish corky/bait down where I grew up(Oregon).

I wanted to know your guy's opinions on float fishing? Do you float fish more then classic drifting?

I've researched the correct rig setup for float fishing, however I still seem to think I may be doing it wrong. bobber stop -> bead -> float -> bead -> weight -> swivel -> leader -> 1 split shot -> jig/bait

What kind of weight is used? I've been sliding a hollow pencil weight bout finger length between float and swivel, because that is all I had. I heard using inline weights are the best?

Also, my bobber stop seems to slide up and down, is that normal?

What sort of water/flow conditions are required/best for floating?

Anyhow, trying to wrap my head around this technique, and hopefully snatch up a steelie up here, before I move back down to Oregon, in a few years.

The only thing I can think of why your bobber stop is slipping is if you are running Mono? Not sure, or maybe you aren't tightening the knot enough. Anyways, I use like to use 2 bobberstops. I've seen guys use all kinds of differing floats and they all produce. Some like to use inline sinkers and some don't. I do prefer Drennan floats, but the Beau Macs are great too. 3/8 is about right and match that with a 1/4oz or 3/8oz inline sinker. My leader length is about 2ft or so maybe longer? I truly believe making sure your float is drifting straight up tells me my drift is perfect.

Best conditions to use bobber/jig? The pace of a nice brisk to slow walk is about right. I recommend reading, "Jig Fishing for Steelhead & Salmon" by Dave Vedder.

Good luck bud.

Float fishing is good for snaggy water, slow moving water and getting long drifts in, especially if you need to get under overhanging branches and trees. It works the same way that drift fishing does, just with different gear. I bring a float rod and a drift rod when I'm fishing, so I can fish all the water I come across. Two bobber stops work well, some stops work better than others, the ones with the thicker thread seem to work better. I like to leave a bit of the ends on the stop, so I can tighten it again, because inevitably it's going to loosen, especially when casting higher weights. I like to use slip egg sinkers for my weights, they tend to pick up less current, keeping the jig under the bobber better. The trick is to have the jig directly under the bobber or only a little bit in front of it, about six inches from the bottom. Which means adjusting your depth often.

Bobber fishing can be really productive, as long as you keep your jig in the right place. Personally I don't like it as much, I like being in contact with the bottom, drift fishing. But I'm not dead set against it, I know that there are some places that are best fished with a float.

I like the art of the jig. From first bite jigs. Its only ten bucks with great info.

I use an inline weight and prefer it over slip weights for bobber fishing - not saying that it is any better, just what I am comfortable (for me, the least moving parts the better).

On my mainline I have bead/bobber/bead, then the top of my inline weight is tied to the mainline and the bottom to leader - then my jig on the other end of that. I use 1/8th & 1/16th oz jigs and have never used splitshot anywhere in that setup.

You bobbers will have a weight stamped on them, that is the optimal weight you want UNDER the bobber (not the weight of the bobber itself). So if you are running a 1/4oz weight and a 1/8oz jig - then your best bet will be a 3/8oz bobber.

Don't discredit running bait under a bobber either. I have caught a lot of fish using this technique. You can use just a leader with no weight, and a sandshrimp or cluster of eggs or prawn tail if the current is slower and the bait has time to sink. Otherwise, you will want to ad a few split shots down the leader, OR use a deadweight or cheater weight (basically a lead corky) on top of your bait to keep it down in moderate currents. Also, don't be afraid to add a sand shrimp tail, or chunk of prawn to your jig (where bait fishing is allowed), it can make a huge difference. Steelhead really seem to like the pre-cooked store bought prawns cured in Pautzke's fire cure. Cut them in bait sized pieces (about a thumbnail) and throw them in the cure overnight. Died and ready to go by morning.

Good luck.

Thanks for all the tips guys

I've been using a "dink" float, not sure if that's bad, it's really light though.

Next time I am the store, I'm gonna pick up some Drennan, they look nice.

So, when your float is "drifting", ideally you want it vertically up & down while it drifts, or can it point upstream?

Anyone float a pink worm /w scent and had success?

I prefer using dinks to sliders if the presentation is only a few feet deep. I use sliding bobbers if I am fishing deeper than 4 feet. You want the bobber to stand straight up and down, this gives your offering the correct presentation. Also, you want your line to stay upstream (above) the float from 12 o clock in the drift down. Don't let a big curve form below the bobber or it will lean over and when you go to set the hook you will just draw up excess line but not hook the fish. Every so often as the bobber goes down lift your rod tip up high and straight and flip the slack line upstream to keep it above the bobber throught the drift. This process is known as "mending" your line and it will get your bobber standing straight and allow a quick firm hookset once you see the BOBBER DOWN!

I prefer bait under a bobber. Also try out using a wrap around float as this makes it so you don't have to use stops. My rig consists of essentially a bottom drifting rig under a bobber. I just tie my line to the swivel and pencil lead, and run a 2 foot leader off that with some pink yarn and eggs or shrimp.

Knox wrote:Thanks for all the tips guys

I've been using a "dink" float, not sure if that's bad, it's really light though.

Next time I am the store, I'm gonna pick up some Drennan, they look nice.

So, when your float is "drifting", ideally you want it vertically up & down while it drifts, or can it point upstream?

Anyone float a pink worm /w scent and had success?

If I have time tonight, i'll post a pic on my FB of the set up we used on the OP in March. Those big Nates crushed pink worms under a float. You can rig it a few ways, but the way we did it kept the pink worm in the zone. Did you get a longer rod btw?

Knox wrote:So, recently I started trying the Float/Jig method for trying to bag steelhead up here in Washington. This is the first time I've tried it, ever. We usually drift fish corky/bait down where I grew up(Oregon).

I wanted to know your guy's opinions on float fishing? Do you float fish more then classic drifting?

I've researched the correct rig setup for float fishing, however I still seem to think I may be doing it wrong. bobber stop -> bead -> float -> bead -> weight -> swivel -> leader -> 1 split shot -> jig/bait

What kind of weight is used? I've been sliding a hollow pencil weight bout finger length between float and swivel, because that is all I had. I heard using inline weights are the best?

Also, my bobber stop seems to slide up and down, is that normal?

What sort of water/flow conditions are required/best for floating?

Anyhow, trying to wrap my head around this technique, and hopefully snatch up a steelie up here, before I move back down to Oregon, in a few years.

Wet your bobber stops before you tie your knot. If you do it the night before and let it dry, they will not slide.

The beau mac floats that came out a couple years ago are great floats, they have weight sizes on them, I like the 3/8 oz floats. I'll use 3/8 oz of standard egg weights + the jig, at times if the wind or current is bad, I'll use 1/2 oz.

Your configuration is wrong, it should be the following, the beads should be next to your knot, although it doesn't hurt to put one between your float and weight, but I typically don't. I also don't use split shots.

bobber stop -> bead -> float -> weight -> bead -> swivel -> leader -> 1 split shot -> jig/bait

jens wrote:

Knox wrote:Thanks for all the tips guys

I've been using a "dink" float, not sure if that's bad, it's really light though.

Next time I am the store, I'm gonna pick up some Drennan, they look nice.

So, when your float is "drifting", ideally you want it vertically up & down while it drifts, or can it point upstream?

Anyone float a pink worm /w scent and had success?

If I have time tonight, i'll post a pic on my FB of the set up we used on the OP in March. Those big Nates crushed pink worms under a float. You can rig it a few ways, but the way we did it kept the pink worm in the zone. Did you get a longer rod btw?

I plan on getting a couple new goodies. One being a Okuma SST 9'6" Spinning Float Rod, and the other for drifting, a Shimano Scimitar 8'6" Spinning, and a new reel, probably a Shimano Symetre 4000FJ(not ready for bait casters yet).

I'm pretty sure my problem is mending, all I got right now is mono line, I think some hydrofloat/braid line and a longer rod will help me get a natural float, and mend easier.

I want to get 2 spools for the Symetre if possible, so I can have a spool of mono, and one of braid/float.

The 4000 is a lot of reel bro. I have 2 Symetres. Both are 3000. I highly recommend braid for effective float fishing. You can fish with mono, but if you are serious about this type of fishing then get put braid on your reel. Like I tell everyone that I fish with, I wish I wouldn't have waited so long to start fishing with baitcasters... he who hesitates....

Is the 3000 model sufficient enough for both steelhead and salmon? I think the 4000 is rated up to 12 lb, while 3000 is 10 lb?

Knox wrote:Is the 3000 model sufficient enough for both steelhead and salmon? I think the 4000 is rated up to 12 lb, while 3000 is 10 lb?

Plenty. Not sure exactly what the diameter of 20lb braid is, but I think it is the same diameter as 6lb mono.

Ah. I noticed the 4000 is quite a bit heavier then 3000, so I think I'll go with the 3000.

Decided to go with an Okuma Guide Select 9'6" Light or Medium light action rod, and the Shimano Symetre 3000, as I mentioned before.

Light action would be best suited for light tackle(jigs, pink worms, glo balls, etc), while medium light would be better for bait(Roe, Sand Shrimps, etc). Do I have that correct? Will the Medium light still work fine for jigs and such? (jENS!)