Using Downriggers, Vibration Noise

[Racer]

I had that same problem with mine reading the ball. What I found it was doing was losing bottom if my setting wasn't right. Then it would lock onto the ball and call that bottom. Resetting the depth on the finder fixed it right away without turning off and on.

[Mike Carey]

regarding accuracy of the counters, I think being a couple feet +/- is adequate, If you're trying to stay in contact within 5 ft of the bottom then (and this is what Anton Jones does) you'll want to bounce that ball on the bottom from time to time anyway. Blow back will always vary a bit so you're never going to be precisely where you think you are. About the only way you'll know with certainty is seeing the ball on your depthfinder. Even then it depends on the depth finder pointing straight down. I know mine is off a bit.

[zen leecher]

Who cares if the downrigger reading is accurate? The sonar tells you the depth of the ball and if you know the fish are at 30' on the downrigger, the fish are 27' on the sonar and the ball is merged with the fish at that same depth. Just drop the ball to 30' on the downrigger meter and catch away.

Besides if one lets out 140' of cable the ball isn't going to be at 140'. It will be somewhat higher because of blowback.

[hewesfisher]

I like using Tuffline as it is typically less expensive than other braids and of equal or better quality, plus it is made in the good ole USA. As for the rubber snubber between the line and the ball, I've heard people claim both reasons you mentioned but I have not been able to validate either one. I do have one and found that it interferes with a weight retrieval system and depending upon how much it stretches, can cause your rod tip to bob something fierce when you encounter waves. 99% of the time I connect the end of my line and my downrigger clip, directly to the weight.

Same here, connect weights direct to the DR clip. I bought a 300yd spool of 200lb test Tuf-Line to respool my riggers. I just haven't gotten around to respooling yet since I don't use them that often.
Same here, connect weights direct to the DR clip.

Same here, connect weights direct to the DR clip.

Hews, you must have reversed what you meant to say? Connecting "weights directly to the DR clip!" that would be weird, and take one heck of a clip.....Ha! Plus, I guess that leaves the DR ball tied to your fishing line. If that happens to be a "old Lake Roosevelt trick" and your just sharing it now, after ample R^& D to confirm the effectiveness of connecting weights to the clip. Then appreciate the sharing..........Just funnin, home sick today.

Nope really do connect my weights directly to the clip, you know, the one on the end of the cable. Yeah, they're beefy, matter of fact, I really dislike trying to use them they're so strong. As for my releases, well, now you want to know all my secrets.

Since I don't hide details, I'll relent. Actually, if you read my reports, when I use downriggers you'll find the answer - I use the clip on cable style release and normally they are 5' above the ball. There is one thing I always use when chasing trout at Roosevelt that I haven't shared with anyone except those who fish aboard with me. The only way you'll learn that tidbit is by doing the same.

Get well and go fishing.

[MotoBoat]

Motoboat - Too funny, my educated, fact gathering missions drive my wife to tears at times. I like to know/feel that I've bought the best product for the job or at least the best product for what I'm willing to pay.

My Penn's are nearly spot on as far as reading the correct depth so I don't think that installing braid will change the accuracy of the counter on the downrigger. There are easy ways to determine the accuracy of the counter. One is to measure out 25' of line with a tape measure and see what you're reading on the counter. The other is to bottom out the rigger while stationary on a lake and check it against your sonar reading. If you find that you are off by a foot or so, don't sweat it.

G-man, your wife may take solace or be further tormented. When knowing your not riding alone! Do they not understand the quest to eliminate "buyers remorse". That the endless flow of goods available in the good ol' USA. Needs, no requires a "educated fact finding mission". This careful, diligent informational search is built into our DNA! How else would be sleep at night?

So, I guess the Misses in your life. Does not request that you do a "educated fact finding mission" for that which she is shopping, prior to purchase? LOL!

My understanding was, the downriggers factory loaded with braid when new. Have counters calibrated for braid. Now, that could mean the same counter is used, whether installed on a cable or braid loaded dr. That would be a common, misleading manufacturer claim.

If the manufacture deems the calibration, "close enough" for either application. When originally developed for cable.

To some, the counter does not matter. For various factors such as "blow back", speed of troll, weight of dr ball, ff picks up dr ball.......ect!

But again, for those with a "sticky" or non working counter, and malfunctioning or no ff at all. They have the option of counting crank handles to determine length of line deployed. Given that, there are ways they can translate " one turn of the handle" or a 100, to "a measured distance". Be it braid or dock rope on a dr. How specific is of personal decision.

Whether using the dr line counter, ff, or handle per turn method. All methods will give a starting point in which you "think" your fishing. Since all factors mentioned previously, affect the "actual" fishing depth. All methods allow for duplication of that depth, when a fish is caught.

It is common practice to comment to a thread, based on personal experience. Without considering, another persons specific situation. Consider: Stepping inside that situation. Take a look, and respond based on how "you might solve the issue".

Before long, it becomes second nature to look at, and see both sides of the coin, fence, opinion, debate, farcicle.....ect!!

[MotoBoat]

I don't experience the dr cable humm when fishing a lake. Only when in the Salt water/sound. Do you?

[gfakkema]

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[strider43]

My FF has a wide or narrow beam adjustment and I have tried changing that to no avail. Turning the unit off/on again works for a few minutes. I am eager to try adjusting the angle of the transponder. Thanks for all of the insight's

[rapala1972]

Any cannon people out there who have switched to braid? If so i am wondering if the Terminator,Termination system cannon uses works with braid like it does with wire. I bought a cannon HP on eBay many years ago and have never replaced the wire on it. This year it is time to replace and i am trying to decide what to replace it with. I really like the Terminator system cannon uses cause it is easy and fast way to make repairs.If braid does not work with that system i will just use wire.

[Bodofish]

I'd be careful about changing Cannons out to braid. I believe they use the line as a conductor for one or more of their systems.

[SsendaM]

If I didn't use electric DR's I would switch over myself... Cannon Mag10's have Positive Ion Control, yet it needs to be checked to make sure it's within the limits allowed to attract fish. Every boat is different. Also the electric retrieve does not stop at the water surface with braid. If you have a manual DR I would go with braid.

[Big D]

In keeping with the topic, I'm hoping to switch my Scotty 1106's over to braid but was told that when you do that it will cause your counter to be off. Any ideas?

[SsendaM]

The only way I can see to compensate for the loss of length to counter ratio is to add a backing on your spool then your braid. This should add enough ratio to compensate for the diameter of the wire. Example: half of a spool of wire line should equal to about a 3/4 of a spool of braid in relation to revolutions per crank. That's the best I got...

[Bodofish]

Not really a big deal when you can usually see your dr ball on the FF. You also have blow back to consider so the whole counter thing is a crap shoot at best so, nothing to worry about. It gets you close and that's really all you need. Remember fish look up for food.

[SsendaM]

Agreed.. At large depths I have had to drop the DR ball to the bottom and adjust the counter to that depth and go from there. On my FF display the DR ball will go a few feet past the bottom depth before it actually hits the bottom but it's pretty darn close.

[MotoBoat]

In keeping with the topic, I'm hoping to switch my Scotty 1106's over to braid but was told that when you do that it will cause your counter to be off. Any ideas?

What comes to mind, besides what has been said previously. Is, how accurate is the counter to begin with? A bit of unknown, since who ever verifies the counter's accuracy when purchased new or used!

So, in repeating what was said before. If I was curious enough. In my scenario, with my boat in my driveway, parked very near the West side of the property line. Downrigger mounted on the boat. I could pull my dr clip, with or without a ball attached. To my and the neighbors property line to the East. That is 80ft - 8ft (actual dr location inside the Westerly property line).

For an additional 80, I have a free path across there lawn to the next Easterly neighbors prop. line. That pretty much covers my max depth of fishing. Of course I would measure that distance off with a 25ft or longer tape measure to verify. But not start a property line war........LOL!

This could be done at any large parking lot with enough free space to do so. A residential street like in front of the house, a big back yard, school parking. Anywhere there is enough spade to run out amount of line to equal the max depth fished.

Or, probably most convenient of all. Do the same thing at a lake. A deep lake! With the depth finder on. Boat not moving. Send the dr ball to the bottom and compare dr counter to f.f. depth.


If I was switching over to braid from cable. That would give a starting point. Who knows, depending on which side (+ or -) your counter is off. Braid may make your counter more accurate. I would think that not likely, but stranger things have happened.

Maybe, this shows how combined each counter is off. Just some ideas for inquiring minds.

[Augwen]

In keeping with the topic, I'm hoping to switch my Scotty 1106's over to braid but was told that when you do that it will cause your counter to be off. Any ideas?

I switched my Scotty to braid 2 years ago. No more hum. My counter is off. At 70' on FF, counter shows 65'. This is at a dead stop (no blowback) in calm water.
Some of my observations...make sure you are using the bead stops for braid. I put 2 of them on and they work fine. I had an older Scotty and had to go to the enclosed pulley at the end of the shaft. I like to hook my clips above the ball about 2'. Some of the line clips will just slide down on the braid. I had to experiment with different clips and found the ones with the straight piece(that clamps back) fitted with a tight piece of rubber over them hold just fine. After all of my trials and tribulations I am happy with what I have and am not afraid to bounce them off the bottom every now and then.

[Mike Carey]

Our new DR read 85 on the clicker but 92 on the depthfinder (250 lb braid), vrs. our old DR reading 70 on the clicker and 72 on the depthfinder (175 lb braid).
As noted by others, I just use the depthfinder to zero in on things.
I'm using the clicker more as a reference point than actual depth.
And also as mentioned, I use two of the braid-specific bead stoppers on my braid cable set a foot apart. I do not want that ball to be hitting the arm of my DR on retrieve. Worked 100% on our last trip. Couldn't be happier.